Tuiga (Ceremonial Headdress): Ornaments
worn on the head visually distinguish the elevated status of the
wearer during Samoan ceremonial events, and the most ornate of these
ornaments is the tuiga. In terms of composition, a traditional tuiga
headdress is an amazingly complex artistic creation generally made
up of five elements. These traditional elements are a base created
from bark cloth (laulau), ringlets of bleached human hair (lauulu),
a forehead band of nautilus shell attached to bark cloth (pale fuiono),
an upright framework of coconut leaf ribs (lave), and red feather
ornamentation ('ie 'ula). Artistic innovation has transformed some
of these elements on more contemporary tuiga. In terms of structure,
while earlier tuiga had three sticks rising vertically, today up
to six are used. In addition, many of the five individual components
are now fashioned into a singular unit. Materials have also changed.
Today, rare red feathers obtained from Fijian parrots are now substituted
with chicken feathers dyed a multitude of colors, and Tongan nautilus
shell, also a rare commodity prized for its beautiful bluish pearl-like
luster, is often replaced with shells having a similar sheen, buttons,
or other small shiny embellishments. In addition, human hair is
no longer an essential element, and small round mirrors have become
a consistent ornament on the vertical framework.
Depending
on the situation, the tuiga headdress can be worn
by either a taupou or a manaia, although today
these restrictions have been loosened, especially
in the diaspora. A manaia, a titled young man who
is often the son of a village chief, has the honor
of wearing the tuiga on many ceremonial occasions.
In the remembered past, other important male
members of a family were also able to wear the
tuiga, especially during critical times, such as
war. The tuiga is also worn by a taupou, a chaste
titled girl whose position is linked to an
individual village and whose presence dignifies,
beautifies and signals the importance of any event.
In the diaspora, however, where the traditional
village does not exist, a graceful young woman from
an important family (not necessarily a taupou) may
be given the honor of wearing the tuiga at
ceremonial and festive events. The young woman
wearing a tuiga should embody certain qualities of
feminine beauty and must gracefully dance with the
cumbersome headdress and prove her skill at refined
ritual movement when making the ceremonial drink
'ava. Young women wearing the tuiga also wear a
variety of beautiful costumes that often include
wrapped fine mats ('ie toga) and decorated bark
cloth (siapo) dresses or skirts. Contemporary
costumes also contain a variety of new materials,
illustrating the rich innovations that continue to
redefine Samoan "traditional" dress in both Samoa
and the diaspora.
"Worn with Pride: Celebrating Samoan Artistic
Heritage" was curated by Teri Sowell, Ph.D.
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