'Ie Toga (Fine Mats): Like siapo (bark
cloth), the production of 'ie toga (fine mats) remains firmly within
the domain of Samoan women. In fact, the 'ie toga is unequivocally
the most culturally valued artistic product created in Samoa. While
Samoans produce many types of mats produced for a variety of purposes
(bedding, room dividers, and floor coverings), the fine mat is technically
superior. On average, these mats contain 12 pandanus leaf strips
per inch, while some of the finest ones have considerably more,
taking several years to make since the average size is six to eight
feet square. To achieve the mat's incredible softness, women remove
the dull underside of the leaf before plaiting, then use a double-layered
weft technique to give a smooth finish to both sides. To complete
the piece, one or more borders of feathers are aligned to run parallel
with the lower edge. In the past, red parrot feathers were used,
but today the color spectrum has widened to include a variety of
colors, many of which are achieved by dyeing chicken feathers. The
production, use and exchange of all fine mats reinforce social position
and gender roles, while allowing the artistic creativity of women
to flourish.
Made and
controlled by women, 'ie toga are given as gifts at
events marking major life events (births, weddings,
funerals, title taking). While lesser mats and bark
cloth are also exchanged during these events, fine
mats hold the most prestige. If fine mats are
included in the gift exchange, it bestows great
honor on the recipient, and increases the standing
of the gift-giver. 'Ie toga are quickly noticed and
appreciated by event spectators. Women gesture
gracefully during the presentation, signaling the
mat's importance and bringing attention to its
beauty. Influenced by family and political
relations, gift giving and the accompanying
reciprocal exchanges continually reaffirm personal
connections, relative rank, and social power. In
addition to gift giving, 'ie toga are also worn
during important public events where they take on a
much broader communal significance. Fine mats may
also be given to honored guests and can be critical
components in attempts at reconciliation and peace
making. For these purposes, immediate reciprocal
exchange is not a factor.
While fine
mats remain the traditional form of wealth for a
Samoan family, the social importance of fine mats
lies in their living histories. These histories
must be followed individually to fully appreciate
their significance. Pertinent information includes
who made the mat, who owned/wore it, and on what
occasions was it exchanged. This history, a
tangible part of the mat, increases its perceived
value, as the significance of each factor is
carefully negotiated on every occasion. Therefore,
fine mats contain a time dimension unlike most
artistic products, as they have a past that is
continually reevaluated and renegotiated. They also
play a prominent role in the present as retained by
families as symbols of status and wealth, while
holding great promise for future prosperity due to
the fine mats ability to solidify social and
political alignments during important events.
In the
past, fine mats would sometimes be worn wrapped
around the body, and then formally presented in
exchange ceremonies. During a ceremonial exchange
in the early nineteenth century, the following
description was recorded: "...a consultation was
carried on as to the quantity and quality of the
mats to be given in payment. When this point had
been finally settled, the female members of the
family arrayed themselves in the mats and walked
forth in procession, an orator taking up his
position in the front of the house, and as each
female came to deposit her mat the orator announced
with much ceremony the name, pedigree, and
description of each mat...." (Stair 1897:151).
During the nineteenth century it was also recorded
that young men would wrap themselves in fine mats
before approaching a tattoo master, and then undo
the wrap in a formal gift presentation, signaling
the beginning of a tattoo session (Kramer 1902,
II:78). The performative element in gift giving has
always been an integral element that dignifies the
event and honors the recipient.
When worn
as clothing on ceremonial occasions (weddings,
State occasions, and events of cultural
significance), fine mats wrapped around the waist
indicate the wearer's individual status and his or
her relationship to the event. Mats worn in this
way are doubled with the feather edging visible.
Fine mats are also used to "wrap" a body at
funerals (actually laid over the coffin),
especially if the deceased was of high rank, to
honor their memory and achievements. Another
example of wrapping the body with an 'ie toga
occurs when a person is requesting forgiveness for
a major transgression. As a sign of contrition, the
culprit will wait outside of person's home or place
of work with a fine mat placed over the head in
hopes that the offended party will accept their
humbled apology. If the victim accepts the mat, it
signals forgiveness for the person who committed
the offense. Samoans determine the value of a fine
mat based on the following aesthetic criteria:
fineness of plait and skill of weaving, softness,
sheen, age, quality of feather decoration, and,
most importantly, historic associations.
"Worn with Pride: Celebrating Samoan Artistic
Heritage" was curated by Teri Sowell, Ph.D.
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